This morning we were up and at the dock by 6 AM for a sunrise cruise with Godfrey. He was also very knowledgeable about birds, their songs and nests, and animals.
We were treated to the beauty of the trees on the shores reflected in the river. Some of the pictures we took are incredible.
Soon we saw the now familiar ear bumps in the water indicating a hippo. First the ears, then the eyes and if you're lucky, a yawn showing the teeth and massive jaws. Just ears and eyes for us this morning. Perhaps the hippos slept well...
Back at the lodge, we had breakfast including what appeared to be a Double Whopper Burger but was actually three pancakes in a tower separated by bacon, pineapple and a bit of cottage cheese. Very good.
At 11:00 AM we got our transfer to Livingstone Airport and our flight to Nelspruit. From there, we will be driven to Tanda Tula, an elevated tented accommodation in a reserve in Kruger National Park. We'll be there for 3 nights.
I have high hopes of spotting lots of cats as there will be two safaris a day - one early in the morning and the other late in the afternoon. Both times are when the animals are most active. The heat of the day is not suitable for beast or man.
I am typing this as we fly. Even though it's a short flight, they served a box lunch. Mine was miniature crepes filed with a tasty filling, crackers and a Butterfinger-like mousse with shaved chocolate in top.
Friday, October 7, 2016
Thursday, October 6, 2016
Africa: Chobe National Park
After an early breakfast on the deck overlooking the Zambezi River, we got in a van to transfer to Chobe Marina Lodge in Botswana where we would have a water safari in the morning and a land safari in the afternoon. We needed our passports as we would be crossing the border into Botswana. Fortunately, no visa is required.
However, both sides were extreme busy. There is one ferry across the Zambezi, and only one truck can fit in the ferry. Truckers line up in both sides with a wait of sometimes five days to get on a ferry. There was a heavy steel gate on both sides to secure the border. We were able to take a pontoon boat across for the quick five minute ride. Apparently, the Chinese are assisting with the construction of the bridge which will be completed in 2019.
Once in Botswana, we were required to wait for our passport to be stamped. It was quite crowded and hot. Next we were asked to step (shoes on) into a shallow pan with wet dirty rags to prevent foot and mouth disease.
At Chobe Lodge, we boarded an open boat with a canvas top. Water and soft drinks were available as well as male and female toilets! The guide, Divine, was very knowledgeable about birds, so I was able to identify many different species. We also saw crocodiles, elephants, giraffes, impala (known as doughnuts of the Savannah as they are plentiful and a tasty snack), water buffalo, wildebeest, and a family of hippos. It was truly amazing.
After, we had a buffet lunch at the lodge before going out in the land safari in a canvassed top vehicle with a fold-down windshield. We saw a lot more elephants, giraffes running, sable antelope, warthogs, zebra and many birds. The landscape was dry and stark because of the heat (over 100 degrees) and lack of rain, but still stunning.
On our return to Zambia, the curio salesmen were gone, so we weren't bothered, but the long lines of truckers remained.
However, both sides were extreme busy. There is one ferry across the Zambezi, and only one truck can fit in the ferry. Truckers line up in both sides with a wait of sometimes five days to get on a ferry. There was a heavy steel gate on both sides to secure the border. We were able to take a pontoon boat across for the quick five minute ride. Apparently, the Chinese are assisting with the construction of the bridge which will be completed in 2019.
Once in Botswana, we were required to wait for our passport to be stamped. It was quite crowded and hot. Next we were asked to step (shoes on) into a shallow pan with wet dirty rags to prevent foot and mouth disease.
At Chobe Lodge, we boarded an open boat with a canvas top. Water and soft drinks were available as well as male and female toilets! The guide, Divine, was very knowledgeable about birds, so I was able to identify many different species. We also saw crocodiles, elephants, giraffes, impala (known as doughnuts of the Savannah as they are plentiful and a tasty snack), water buffalo, wildebeest, and a family of hippos. It was truly amazing.
After, we had a buffet lunch at the lodge before going out in the land safari in a canvassed top vehicle with a fold-down windshield. We saw a lot more elephants, giraffes running, sable antelope, warthogs, zebra and many birds. The landscape was dry and stark because of the heat (over 100 degrees) and lack of rain, but still stunning.
On our return to Zambia, the curio salesmen were gone, so we weren't bothered, but the long lines of truckers remained.
Wednesday, October 5, 2016
Africa: Livingstone Island, Zambia
This morning we went on a game drive through the local national park, Mosi-oa-Tunya (the smoke that thunders). Fabias was our driver and guide which was terrific as he is very knowledgeable and can identity birds by their song. We saw elephants, giraffe, and many groups of impala. This park is smaller, but there were still numerous animals. Fabias even pointed out elephant tracks which look like oval disks about a foot long and 9 inches wide.
Afterwards, we were delivered to the Royal Livingstone Hotel where we met our guide, Alpha Omega, who would take us to Victoria Falls. There was the option of swimming in Devils Pool, a rocky indentation fairly close to the edge of the falls. I chose not to, but most in our group, including Charlene, my traveling friend, suited up and took the plunge! It was necessary for them to swim to one group of rocks, climb on the rocks, and then re-enter the water to get to the Pool. Alpha Omega and other guards were there, but the amount of paperwork absolving them of any responsibility was daunting and an indication of the risk. Still, all who went loved it and were quite happy they had done it.
Later, under the coolness of a canopy, we were treated to a delicious lunch including beef, chicken, roasted veggies and pineapple sorbet. Some toasted to their courage with wine!
Afterwards, we were delivered to the Royal Livingstone Hotel where we met our guide, Alpha Omega, who would take us to Victoria Falls. There was the option of swimming in Devils Pool, a rocky indentation fairly close to the edge of the falls. I chose not to, but most in our group, including Charlene, my traveling friend, suited up and took the plunge! It was necessary for them to swim to one group of rocks, climb on the rocks, and then re-enter the water to get to the Pool. Alpha Omega and other guards were there, but the amount of paperwork absolving them of any responsibility was daunting and an indication of the risk. Still, all who went loved it and were quite happy they had done it.
Later, under the coolness of a canopy, we were treated to a delicious lunch including beef, chicken, roasted veggies and pineapple sorbet. Some toasted to their courage with wine!
Tuesday, October 4, 2016
Africa: Livingstone
We started yesterday with a trip to Victoria Falls. There are paths along the side that allow you to see the falls and the towering basalt cliffs. The falls are much less fierce now as this is the end of the dry season. Had it been the wet season, none of the cliffs would have been visible and we would have been covered with spray. The falls were still astounding as they thundered to the bottom- 180 meters down which I believe is twice Niagara's?
Our guide, Fabias, knows birds well, so he pointed out a number of different species as we walked along. It is not nearly as hot here as in OK, probably due to the lesser humidity. After Vic Falls we wandered through the curio market. Unfortunately the artists are intent on a sale and so I did not stay as I was too distracted by their salesmanship.
Next we dropped some folks at the Royal Livingstone hotel which had giraffes nibbling leaves near the hotel.
Then we returned to Tingabezi for a tasty lunch and a bit of relaxation before leaving for the Livingstone Museum which was quite interesting. It contained excellent maps, models and dioramas depicting the history of Zambia and village life. They had tools displayed (some found recently by school children) from the Stone and Iron Age.
There was also a section on David Livingsyone, the missionary, who explored Africa and was also looking for the Nile. There were actual letters he had written in closed cases, enclosed in glass that we could pull out and read.
Next was the bustling fruit market which was the real Zambia. Everything was for sale including fruit, clothes, beans, and dried fish that look like silver leaves with eyes (among hundreds of other items). We were told not to take photos as that's intrusive. Most stalls were primitive with tin roofs and fabric or paper walls. One makeshift table was supported by perhaps a car motor or transmission. Music was playing with a rollicking beat and families and children were everywhere. The sound of roosters could be heard often as they and chickens were available to buy live to be taken home and cooked for special meals.
One stall contained a man with a sewing machine and a poster of fashions on the fabric wall. People will choose an outfit and he will make it for them. He even makes school uniforms as they are more expensive purchased elsewhere. Two men were playing checkers in the shade using bottle caps as tokens. There was even a pool table on a concrete slab where two men had a friendly game in progress.
My main thought was that despite the heat, multitudinous flies, and primitive environment, people were joyous, joking with each other as they went about their daily lives in the market.
Back at the lodge, we cracked open the bottle of wine Mary Ann, the woman who organized our trip, had left in our room, and watched the sun go down over the Zambezi River.
Our guide, Fabias, knows birds well, so he pointed out a number of different species as we walked along. It is not nearly as hot here as in OK, probably due to the lesser humidity. After Vic Falls we wandered through the curio market. Unfortunately the artists are intent on a sale and so I did not stay as I was too distracted by their salesmanship.
Next we dropped some folks at the Royal Livingstone hotel which had giraffes nibbling leaves near the hotel.
Then we returned to Tingabezi for a tasty lunch and a bit of relaxation before leaving for the Livingstone Museum which was quite interesting. It contained excellent maps, models and dioramas depicting the history of Zambia and village life. They had tools displayed (some found recently by school children) from the Stone and Iron Age.
There was also a section on David Livingsyone, the missionary, who explored Africa and was also looking for the Nile. There were actual letters he had written in closed cases, enclosed in glass that we could pull out and read.
Next was the bustling fruit market which was the real Zambia. Everything was for sale including fruit, clothes, beans, and dried fish that look like silver leaves with eyes (among hundreds of other items). We were told not to take photos as that's intrusive. Most stalls were primitive with tin roofs and fabric or paper walls. One makeshift table was supported by perhaps a car motor or transmission. Music was playing with a rollicking beat and families and children were everywhere. The sound of roosters could be heard often as they and chickens were available to buy live to be taken home and cooked for special meals.
One stall contained a man with a sewing machine and a poster of fashions on the fabric wall. People will choose an outfit and he will make it for them. He even makes school uniforms as they are more expensive purchased elsewhere. Two men were playing checkers in the shade using bottle caps as tokens. There was even a pool table on a concrete slab where two men had a friendly game in progress.
My main thought was that despite the heat, multitudinous flies, and primitive environment, people were joyous, joking with each other as they went about their daily lives in the market.
Back at the lodge, we cracked open the bottle of wine Mary Ann, the woman who organized our trip, had left in our room, and watched the sun go down over the Zambezi River.
Monday, October 3, 2016
Africa: Zambia - Tongabezi
Good morning from the shores of the Zambezi River. It is a gorgeous day - hope to be able to post a photo later...). Having coffee on the deck observing an African Darter which looks a little like a large cormorant.
Yesterday to we flew into Livingstone and were transferred to Tongabezi by van through Livingstone. The area is quite rural with some small businesses along the side of the road and many, many people walking, especially school children, as well as women carrying items on their head and also others on bikes.
After we got settled in our rooms and went through a short orientation, we had lunch of homemade gazpacho, bread and a lamb burger which we split as we weren't very hungry after the large breakfast AND the meal on the 90 minute flight from Joburg.
After unpacking, we headed for the dock for the sunset cruise in a pontoon sort of boat. The compound is set up with elevated planked walkways everywhere. We saw a family of monkeys. In my room was a beautiful tiny black spotted lizard. I'd love to identify it. Also lots of ordinary lizards around.
On the boat, Fabias - who had picked us up at the airport - motored us around looking for animals. We finally spotted large "rocks" in the river which were moving. Hippos! A few even yawned for us, showing their huge jaws and teeth. Most were in groups of 3-4. They were cute completely submerged except for ears and then their eyes. They spend the day in the water because of the heat - at least 95 yesterday - and then come on to land at night to feed. You know they are there when you hear their frantic and loud munching. Some even come onto the property according to the guides. Consequently, we are escorted to and from dinner in case animals are nearby.
We also spotted a few elephants in the distance feeding along with an African darter, African eagle and a reed cormorant. Soon we pulled up to an island where they had set up drinks and snacks on a small table. Some of us had Pimm's as a nod to the British... Off to the side were large hay mounds. They were what I thought - elephant dung!
The views on the river were peaceful, and the air was breezy. A perfect preamble to dinner on the deck not too soon after we returned.
Today we go to Livingstone to see the island, Victoria Falls and the David Livingstone museum.
Yesterday to we flew into Livingstone and were transferred to Tongabezi by van through Livingstone. The area is quite rural with some small businesses along the side of the road and many, many people walking, especially school children, as well as women carrying items on their head and also others on bikes.
After we got settled in our rooms and went through a short orientation, we had lunch of homemade gazpacho, bread and a lamb burger which we split as we weren't very hungry after the large breakfast AND the meal on the 90 minute flight from Joburg.
After unpacking, we headed for the dock for the sunset cruise in a pontoon sort of boat. The compound is set up with elevated planked walkways everywhere. We saw a family of monkeys. In my room was a beautiful tiny black spotted lizard. I'd love to identify it. Also lots of ordinary lizards around.
On the boat, Fabias - who had picked us up at the airport - motored us around looking for animals. We finally spotted large "rocks" in the river which were moving. Hippos! A few even yawned for us, showing their huge jaws and teeth. Most were in groups of 3-4. They were cute completely submerged except for ears and then their eyes. They spend the day in the water because of the heat - at least 95 yesterday - and then come on to land at night to feed. You know they are there when you hear their frantic and loud munching. Some even come onto the property according to the guides. Consequently, we are escorted to and from dinner in case animals are nearby.
We also spotted a few elephants in the distance feeding along with an African darter, African eagle and a reed cormorant. Soon we pulled up to an island where they had set up drinks and snacks on a small table. Some of us had Pimm's as a nod to the British... Off to the side were large hay mounds. They were what I thought - elephant dung!
The views on the river were peaceful, and the air was breezy. A perfect preamble to dinner on the deck not too soon after we returned.
Today we go to Livingstone to see the island, Victoria Falls and the David Livingstone museum.
Sunday, October 2, 2016
Africa: Johannesburg
We arrived in JNB last night and were met by a helper from the safari company who was able to speed us through Customs. I think it saved us 60-90 minutes time! Then another helper walked us to the hotel.
The hotel is nice and there is breakfast this morning. Then we'll return to the airport where we'll get our two hour flight to Livingstone. We'll be staying there on the Zambezi River for four nights. It will be great to be in one place for more than one night.
Last night, about an hour before we landed, it was cool to look out the window and see brown and green land formations beneath us. No buildings or roads.
City Hotel in Jburg
OR Tambo Airport, JNB
The hotel is nice and there is breakfast this morning. Then we'll return to the airport where we'll get our two hour flight to Livingstone. We'll be staying there on the Zambezi River for four nights. It will be great to be in one place for more than one night.
Last night, about an hour before we landed, it was cool to look out the window and see brown and green land formations beneath us. No buildings or roads.
Saturday, October 1, 2016
Blast off!
At the airport in plenty of time. Just waiting for plane to ATL.
Now we're in ATL. Great jazz musician serenading us as we have lunch.
Now we're in ATL. Great jazz musician serenading us as we have lunch.
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