Saturday, September 28, 2019
The day was sunny, so we set out for the tourist information center to buy the Bergen Card which we determined would save some money on the places/activities we had planned. On the way, we found the Bergen Market, a twice a month outdoor market with hot food being prepared, jams, jellies, honey and lots of fresh produce. We wandered around there for awhile not trying anything as we had just had breakfast at home.
On the other side of the water from where we’re staying is Bryggen, an area of restored buildings from the very beginnings of Bergen. (These brightly colored buildings are among the most iconic images of Bergen.) A lot of buildings in old Bergen (maybe all of them) have been destroyed by fire, but they’ve done a great job of recreating them. We were able to join an English tour of the area and learn abut the beginnings of Bergen and the Hanseatic League, basically a German enclave which emerged and grew after the Black Death occurred. In the 12 century, Bergen became an important trading center primarily of dried fish because of its deep harbors and location. Our guide was lively and funny and had some great stories about the early days.
When they built the town, they placed pavers in one direction to indicate where houses would be built and in another direction to show paths. The guide also told a tale abut the bump on the cod’s head (see photo of very large wooden cod) that was supposedly thought to bring good luck. Actually, the bump was later found to be caused by a malformation or disease. But in the olden days, they touched it or kissed it for good fortune.
Next, we walked to the funicular up to Mt. Floyen. This was in a different neighborhood and I realized (as at home) each area has its own flavor.It was just minutes up the mountain but exciting and offered beautiful views. There were several options for lunch including a restaurant, cafe, and a hot dog stand. We chose the cafeteria which was somewhat speedy. I had a piled high open-faced shrimp sandwich, and Betty had the soup bar offering three different kinds of soup to try along with bread. We were also treated to an impromptu choral concert by a neighboring table of men. I also opted to try the heart shaped waffle with jam toppings for dessert. (After all, we hadn’t tried the jam-topped pancake at the farmer’s market...) It was a very wise choice as it was delicious.
We poked around the shops a bit, had dinner in town and then on the way home stopped for some of that delicious gelato we had had the night before.
Farmer’s market phots above, including some honey...
The funicular - photos quite a bit out of order...
On the other side of the water from where we’re staying is Bryggen, an area of restored buildings from the very beginnings of Bergen. (These brightly colored buildings are among the most iconic images of Bergen.) A lot of buildings in old Bergen (maybe all of them) have been destroyed by fire, but they’ve done a great job of recreating them. We were able to join an English tour of the area and learn abut the beginnings of Bergen and the Hanseatic League, basically a German enclave which emerged and grew after the Black Death occurred. In the 12 century, Bergen became an important trading center primarily of dried fish because of its deep harbors and location. Our guide was lively and funny and had some great stories about the early days.
When they built the town, they placed pavers in one direction to indicate where houses would be built and in another direction to show paths. The guide also told a tale abut the bump on the cod’s head (see photo of very large wooden cod) that was supposedly thought to bring good luck. Actually, the bump was later found to be caused by a malformation or disease. But in the olden days, they touched it or kissed it for good fortune.
Next, we walked to the funicular up to Mt. Floyen. This was in a different neighborhood and I realized (as at home) each area has its own flavor.It was just minutes up the mountain but exciting and offered beautiful views. There were several options for lunch including a restaurant, cafe, and a hot dog stand. We chose the cafeteria which was somewhat speedy. I had a piled high open-faced shrimp sandwich, and Betty had the soup bar offering three different kinds of soup to try along with bread. We were also treated to an impromptu choral concert by a neighboring table of men. I also opted to try the heart shaped waffle with jam toppings for dessert. (After all, we hadn’t tried the jam-topped pancake at the farmer’s market...) It was a very wise choice as it was delicious.
We poked around the shops a bit, had dinner in town and then on the way home stopped for some of that delicious gelato we had had the night before.
Friday, September 27, 2019
Our first morning in Bergen. We slept way later than we meant to after 30 hours without any sleep. You’ll have to forgive my typos - I’m using my iPad with a wireless keyboard with pretty small buttons...
After we arrived, we found the light rail station and took that into Bergen - about a 45 minute ride. The sun as out and the countryside was beautiful. Everything is very Nordic, but I guess that’s appropriate. Norway doesn’t look like any other city - Paris, Frankfurt, Genoa. It truly does have a flavor all its own.
We had quite a bit of time to waste since we couldn’t get into the BnB until 2:30. So we headed to the tourist information center where we got info about what was open and what our options would be for Saturday. A lot more - museums that are open and tours at museums - were open than the guidebooks said would be open. Sept/Oct is out of season a bit, so lots of things close up. But there is a lot more available than we thought, thank goodness.
We had lunch at the fish market, an icon or sorts, where dried cod hangs from the ceiling and all kinds of fresh seafood is for sale. Right on a very busy quay. We both had hake which tastes like a classic white fish. Very good.
Then we finally took off, our two suitcase a piece bumping along over the largely cobblestoned streets. It was a bit of a jarring hike of maybe 1.5 miles from the train station but easy to find the right street thanks to the Bergen city guide map. Not too much traffic, so crossing streets was easy. The street we’re on - “Strand garden” means walking street, according to our host, Vegard, so a good
section of it bars cars. There are all sorts of little shops like several bike shops and even a yarn shop. It does not have the sophistication of Florence but rather a small town European flair.
We finally arrived at our BnB and Vegard was waiting outside. It’s a high rise and we’re on the 2 floor. Kitchen, dining room, living room, bathroom and two bedrooms. Just the right size and well equipped. Plus - great wifi! Large windows looking over the Main Street which had quite a few commuters on bikes. (Later in the middle of the night when I was up I saw dog walkers, cyclists.)
After unpacking, we took off down the street to the shops and bought some essentials - coffee, fruit, milk, etc. And browsed in a girls’ “bike shop” as the proprietor referred to it. Lots of flower garlands I guess to decorate the bikes? Funky bells, girly helmets and a very cool work bike in white.
Next came dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant (Caesar salad and pizza which we split as we were full from lunch). But the best part was the gelato in all kinds of flavors. Betty had mocha (my favorite which I’ll maybe try tonight) and I had pistachio chip. (Krista: it was as good as Italy!)
I took lots of pictures. I hope I can label them. If not, the one that’s all blue was the public bathroom that cost 10 NOK (just over 1 cent) and was lit by ultraviolet light. Maybe to de-germ the place??
Sights along the trai line
Inside light rail car
Along the wharf.
One of the light rail stations
After we arrived, we found the light rail station and took that into Bergen - about a 45 minute ride. The sun as out and the countryside was beautiful. Everything is very Nordic, but I guess that’s appropriate. Norway doesn’t look like any other city - Paris, Frankfurt, Genoa. It truly does have a flavor all its own.
We had quite a bit of time to waste since we couldn’t get into the BnB until 2:30. So we headed to the tourist information center where we got info about what was open and what our options would be for Saturday. A lot more - museums that are open and tours at museums - were open than the guidebooks said would be open. Sept/Oct is out of season a bit, so lots of things close up. But there is a lot more available than we thought, thank goodness.
We had lunch at the fish market, an icon or sorts, where dried cod hangs from the ceiling and all kinds of fresh seafood is for sale. Right on a very busy quay. We both had hake which tastes like a classic white fish. Very good.
Then we finally took off, our two suitcase a piece bumping along over the largely cobblestoned streets. It was a bit of a jarring hike of maybe 1.5 miles from the train station but easy to find the right street thanks to the Bergen city guide map. Not too much traffic, so crossing streets was easy. The street we’re on - “Strand garden” means walking street, according to our host, Vegard, so a good
section of it bars cars. There are all sorts of little shops like several bike shops and even a yarn shop. It does not have the sophistication of Florence but rather a small town European flair.
We finally arrived at our BnB and Vegard was waiting outside. It’s a high rise and we’re on the 2 floor. Kitchen, dining room, living room, bathroom and two bedrooms. Just the right size and well equipped. Plus - great wifi! Large windows looking over the Main Street which had quite a few commuters on bikes. (Later in the middle of the night when I was up I saw dog walkers, cyclists.)
After unpacking, we took off down the street to the shops and bought some essentials - coffee, fruit, milk, etc. And browsed in a girls’ “bike shop” as the proprietor referred to it. Lots of flower garlands I guess to decorate the bikes? Funky bells, girly helmets and a very cool work bike in white.
Next came dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant (Caesar salad and pizza which we split as we were full from lunch). But the best part was the gelato in all kinds of flavors. Betty had mocha (my favorite which I’ll maybe try tonight) and I had pistachio chip. (Krista: it was as good as Italy!)
I took lots of pictures. I hope I can label them. If not, the one that’s all blue was the public bathroom that cost 10 NOK (just over 1 cent) and was lit by ultraviolet light. Maybe to de-germ the place??
Public bathroom
Outside airport
Thursday, September 26, 2019
Itinerary
Getting ready to go to the airport after a nice breakfast at the Hampton Inn.
Here’s a map of our anticipated itinerary:
Here’s a map of our anticipated itinerary:
Sunday, September 22, 2019
Almost to Norway
Four days until I fly from Columbus to Dulles to meet my friend, Betty and then on to Copenhagen before finally landing in Bergen. We'll be at an AirBnB in Bergen on Strandgaten (I'm getting a little bit good at these Norwegian names...) which is conveniently located somewhat near the light rail station, "Bybanen." I spent several hours yesterday organizing the information for getting from Point A to Point B. I think I'm ready.
Bergen, apparently, is an extremely rainy city. (I didn't know that before I started following the weather in Bergen, Bodo and Kirkenes, mostly to see how cold it was or would be.) But fortunately, several days before we arrive the sun is scheduled to make an appearance. For how long is anybody's guess.
I'm trying to be prepared for all kinds of weather with many different layers - parka, fleece, raincoat, vest, etc. We'll see...
Our trip is about 17 days with time in Bergen on either side of the cruise portion. We're taking a Hurtigruten ferry/cruise ship from Bergen to Kirkenes and then back again hoping to explore a lot of Norway and also see the Northern Lights. The cruise is not a typical one as some passengers will be cruising, so to speak, and others will be hopping on and off the ferry to get to one of the many smaller towns. It reminds me a bit of the ferry system in Alaska, aka the Alaska Marine Highway. I think it might be a step up from that, but maybe not too many steps!
Stay tuned. I hope to be faithful with the writing of this blog, but I may get sidetracked by magnificent views or salmon.
Bergen, apparently, is an extremely rainy city. (I didn't know that before I started following the weather in Bergen, Bodo and Kirkenes, mostly to see how cold it was or would be.) But fortunately, several days before we arrive the sun is scheduled to make an appearance. For how long is anybody's guess.
I'm trying to be prepared for all kinds of weather with many different layers - parka, fleece, raincoat, vest, etc. We'll see...
Our trip is about 17 days with time in Bergen on either side of the cruise portion. We're taking a Hurtigruten ferry/cruise ship from Bergen to Kirkenes and then back again hoping to explore a lot of Norway and also see the Northern Lights. The cruise is not a typical one as some passengers will be cruising, so to speak, and others will be hopping on and off the ferry to get to one of the many smaller towns. It reminds me a bit of the ferry system in Alaska, aka the Alaska Marine Highway. I think it might be a step up from that, but maybe not too many steps!
Stay tuned. I hope to be faithful with the writing of this blog, but I may get sidetracked by magnificent views or salmon.
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